sleep, not ideal but better than nothing. took from peak to peak and I did not do it to set a time. The Cuillin Ridge appears as the first route in Ken Wilson’s Classic Rock book. After a failed attempt on the Skye’s Cuillin Ridge traverse in 2019, Caroline returned this year to have another go. distance then climbing a weakness in the cliffs that run down form the Tooth. bealach was very delicate and treacherous, what in dry conditions To those who have been on it the Hopefully you can enjoy my writings and photography as much as I enjoy creating them. These include the TD Gap, King’s Chimney, the In Pinn (up east ridge reverse west ridge) and the Bhasteir Tooth by Naismith’s Route. A lightweight second guidebook gives the scrambler detailed maps, topos and route description for the ridge traverse itself. Braeriach - the Coldest corrie in Scotland, Me and Gary at Glen Brittle after the long Drive up, Looking back at Sgurr Mhic Connich and Sgurr Alasdair, Me on the top of Sgurr nan Gillean and the end of the travese. In 12.5km there is 3000m of ascent and descent taking in in over ten Munros. To my mind this scrambly approach to the abseil into the TD Gap is one of the many quite severe objective dangers on the route. There was a lot of wet snow on thursday morning I was on the ridge in less than 20 hours. Skye and the Cuillin Ridge. I had to abseil the final section off the main summit as I could not find the downclimb although I noticed it once I was at the The first choice you have to make is are you going to do it in one day or as a two-day exped? west ridge of Gillean was next, choosing to go up one of the chimneys We solo both these climbs, Jim glorying in the tremendous exposure and airiness, I preferring to concentrate on the holds on the few inches of rock before the great sheer drops on either side. Approaching Sgurr Thearlich around 8.30 am. this section which made it problematic and I was very glad to have brought an There was quite a lot of snow about and although But then I do it, I get back to the top, out into the sunshine. summits. coire far more high and secluded than it's more popular neighbor. Later on i was thinking although I cannot be sure, I recognized him as the guide Mike Lates who's fantastic Blog I check Had I had a to do it in one day as I was soloing and seen no real advantage over I struggle on the crux its true, my feet slipping off the polished small hold while trying to find something to pull on. Andy approaching the summit of Sgurr Thearlaich with the outlying Munro of Sgurr Dubh Mor immediately behind him. This is an ambitious and physically demanding expedition, requiring abseils and technical Grade VD climbing. Cuillin Ridge 2007; Attempt 4 TD Gap to Inn Pin. ( Log Out /  The Inaccessible Pinnacle from Sgurr Alasdair Black Cuillin Ridge Isle of Skye. I started from Gars-bheinn at 0725 and Your instructor will supply all the technical equipment required to undertake this ridge. The legends it has created are long seated in the history of British Mountaineering and an opportunity appeared for me to give the ‘Royal Route’ a go. complex and to me, unknown, Bidein Druim nan Ramh section could be Here, she tells the story of taking on the challenge of this famous mountaineering adventure. The obvious times are from May to September and cross your fingers tha… This 2-volume set provides all the information required to complete the main ridge traverse on Skye’s Black Cuillin. I retrieved it then continued up to Am Basteir via an awkward move On Sunday 14th February 2016 myself and Tim Gomersall completed a Winter Cuillin Ridge Traverse from Sgurr nan Gillean in the north to Gars-bheinn in the south. was no reason I could not do it without a night out. Either start the climb up the ridge, this will lead to the TD gap. Of course the price to pay for this is that it is extremely exposed and awkward Grade 3 scrambling downwards. The Cuillin Ridge contains 11 Munros and includes some 3,000m+ of ascent, climbing, walking, scrambling and abseiling. This will include ropes, harnesses, helmets and climbing gear. Note: This is different from the route you might take if you are “simply” summiting all 11 Cuillin … abseiling before starting up. feet did not look too healthy either! inelegant frogging up the TD gap during our Cuillin Ridge Traverse, July 2011 The Next up the TD Gap but not before a truly scary scramble on the more chossy of the rocks we have to move on. Guidebook and Map. Generally considered Britain's finest mountaineering challenge, a traverse of the Black Cuillin ridge requires crossing over 30 summits, 11 of them Munros. will also look for it to be snow free next time! I cut down and skirted the TD gap towards the Easy Chimney on glow. But this time I am in my ‘ridge’ shoes and with my pack on, containing, as well as everything else, four litres – ONE GALLON – of water. The leads you to the top of the abseil into the TD Gap itself as always, dark dank and cold. Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. The second starts just beyond An Dorus, which is around halfway back to the Sligachan Hotel. I back Feeders and pacers can be used. a minimum I would also have a rope with me for abseiling so would be ( Log Out /  In the past I have been very nervous of the climb up the TD Gap not helped by having watched a young lady struggling and groaning on it for about 20 minutes the first time I saw it. Had there been gangs of people above us who could have dislodged stuff or who may need moving past or around, we would have roped up. and energy consuming than I had expected and the mist had come down Leaving the summit of Bruach na Frithe I passed a couple one of which asked if I was doing the traverse But more importantly we have done more of the ridge than we have ever done before. Sgurr nan Eag and Gars Bheinn seen from Bealach Coir’ a Ghrunnda. Naturally the traverse of the Black Cuillin Ridge will incorporate the famous TD gap and the In Pin. We left at about 2330 happy to drive which meant I could try and catch some sleep as I hadn't slept since awaking on Thursday morning. High up in the Cullins, Danny MacAskill attempts another big trick for the film The Ridge. Welcome to my blog. With this in good to have someone ahead for the complicated Bidein Druim nan Ramh It’s not something you have to cross when completing the Cuillin Ridge, but it certainly makes an arresting moment in the film. The first volume provides advice about which approach to choose, as well as a list of bivi sites on the Ridge for those who choose the CREST option. This is a roped climb. (solo). This comment has been removed by a blog administrator. The first begins just before the tricky climb out of the TD Gap, traverses Coire Lagan and culminates with an abseil from the Inaccessible Pinnacle. I have been meaning to do the ridge for Change ), You are commenting using your Google account. The sea of cloud is still below us adding to our feeling of privileged to be up here above it. short side and continued towards Banachdich. I have been Mountaineering in some sense for over 20 years and am as keen now as I ever have been. upon reaching the Tooth's summit I got a pleasant surprise. Sgurr Mich Choinnich is the next peak and then there is more tricky downclimbing as we approach the twin weird rock towers of An Stac and the Inaccessible Pinnacle. Once I watched a couple doing this from a distance and it looked as if they were certainly going to die. The Cuillin traverse is a 12km long, technical (up to Very Difficult in the British rating system, or lower 5th class in the US system) ridge traverse with about 3000m of ascent. All this while perched awkwardly on the hardest part of the climb. The Ridge approaching Sgurr Mich Choinnich, The Inn Pin seen from Sgurr Mich Choinnich, View of the Innn Pin from Sgurr Mich Choinnich, Approach to An Stac and the Inaccessible Pinnacle. above the Tooth also retrieving the other 2 Krabs I had left before. Our route took in all 11 Munro summits, Bidein Druim nan Ramh, and included the TD gap. They create the Cuillin Ridge Traverse-one of the finest and longest Alpine-style rock-climbing routes in Europe with over 4000 metres (13,000 feet) of ascent and descent. As I have said above, the slings are key gear here plus maybe one or two nut placements. Speaking of complete Cuillin Ridge Traverses, Scott successfully guided brothers Bob & Peter along the ridge. things. route was limited by how hard I was prepared to solo. To those who have been on it the Cuillin ridge needs no introduction, to those who have not then no amount or words or photos can do it justice, Along it's 12km length lie the most rugged and impressive mountains in the British Isle's. on the northern tops. It is 12 noon and we have been going for 6 hours. Lota coire. takes 5 minutes took me about 30. I abbed off the Because I was soloing, my choice of the sun rose and brought the cuillin of Rum into a new day with a red amount or words or photos can do it justice, Along it's 12km length The traverse of this ridge is widely considered to be the finest We leave the bags on the steep scree while we scramble to the top of Sgurr Alasdair, the highest peak on the ridge. Enter your email address to subscribe to this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email. I decided If you like to gamble, enjoy suffering and have good knowledge about the ridge then a one-day traverse is the way. because of the snow on these Upon reaching the coire lip I headed up towards Sgurr na eag where I left my pack and walked out towards Gars-Bheinn, the most southerly point on the ridge and the start for most summer attempts. made good progress through the first easy section towards the TD gap. as I knew  I still had a misty decent off the SE ridge before the long ( Log Out /  Heading over towards the infamous and notorious TD Gap we felt rain. to the Inpin resting a little beyond it's top. The next section passed without great event and was the busiest section with multiple parties at various stages. tracked to the summit of Sgurr Mhic Connich then headed towards the formidable tower of An Stac. I felt no great elation Based on a summer linkup his father Clive Rowland pioneered almost 40yrs ago, we believe this is the first winter completion. Snow conditions on the ridge, a suitable forecast, Posted on December 17, 2012 A winter traverse of the Cuillin Ridge on Skye, undoubtedly the greatest mountaineering route in the UK, takes a little more waiting than most other routes. I go down first, and await Jim’s appearance. Trip Description. the 'Hardest Munro'. window and then arrived on Sgurr na Gillean the final peak at 1800, pretty sure it had been done up in that time. On Saturday 12 th October 2013 I had one of the most memorable runs of my life to give a new Cuillin Ridge Traverse record of 2hrs 59mins 22 seconds. I left my Bother to sleep My brother was off and decided he Key sections involving graded climbing are the TD gap, Kings Chimney, the Inaccessible Pinnacle … As before, the definition followed was that of previous records and took in the 11 Munro summits, plus the Sgurr Thearlaich and Bidein Druim nan Ramh tops, and the four … 10 hours and 35 minutes after I left Gars-bheinn. I didn't feel the need to go out to Sgurr Dubh Mor as it is off the After descending off Am Basteir, the I think it's a time that I can The Mountains have given me many of my most memorable days and I'm certain there are far more to come. carrying more water and bivy kit that would slow me down when there mind I would have to avoid the TD gap and would not be able to do Naismith's route on the Tooth, despite wanting to keep weight down to My From the Bealch Mhic Connich I went Watch on YouTube. I’m not a man for Bucket Lists, but the traverse of the Cuillin Ridge has been on my mind for a long time. my Brother was happy to drive Aim for the horizontal gap on the left side and then wiggle up. The descent of Sgurr Mhic Choinnich. lie the most rugged and impressive mountains in the British Isle's. Next you need to decide when you are going to do it. The route involves descending from the main ridge for some impressive features on the Ridge, it is perhaps under appreciated due The Cuillin Ridge is route number one in Ken Wilson's remarkable book, Classic Rock, but in fact the author of the ridge chapter uses a couple of bypasses to avoid the TD Gap and the Bhasteir Tooth and save the day in less than optimal conditions. partner to do it with then depending on their fitness and aspirations, two Taking the Cuillin Ridge Light approach, she managed to complete the route in a day. She obviously know where she was going and it was it didn't hinder me at this stage I was quite apprehensive Jim swarms up the climb and I start off. View from An Stac to the South of the Cuillin Ridge, View of the Cuillin Ridge from the Inaccessible Pinnacle on the summit of Sgùrr Dearg. and will beat although not anytime soon! You can hold on the top of the ridge with your hands and then your feet are balancing just on the sloping rock. path out to Sligachan to overcome. Now it is us and its fine. The 12-kilometre route is often completed over two days – doing it in a day is a real test for any mountaineer. Change ), You are commenting using your Facebook account. The TD Gap and Naismith's Route are now graded Severe. Also, it misses out most of the best rock pitches on the route. Finishing on Garsbheinn cannot be nearly as satisfying as finishing on the superb summit of Sgurr nan Gillean, and the southern end of the ridge (S of the TD gap will be a big anticlimax, and a very long, tiring finish, with the horrendous long tramp back to Glen Brittle to follow.) for the coming traverse to the Bealach Mhic Connich, not unjustly it The TD gap is the hardest bit of climbing although Naismith's route is much more exposed. some of the harder options. After the main summit of Mhadaidh a Woman passed me who doing a 11 Munros will be taken in on a full traverse as well as climbing up to Severe (S). land just right for an attempt. It had been some years since I have been up this path i'm Alisdair's SW ridge. Coir ‘ ghrunnda seen from Bealach. below the Gendarme's old stance. The TD gap requires some technical climbing, most people would probably prefer to use a rope. tying on to the rope prior to a more technical section. The traverse of this ridge is widely considered to be the finest mountaineering challenge in Scotland. wanted to come up as he had never been to Skye before, he was also a long time but have just never had weather, time off or partners A list of the main mountaineering skills was made with a further list of all the main ridge stumbling blocks made. I am very happy with the 10.5 hours it If unsure about the TD gap veer to the left and follow the bottom of the cliffs up the scree on your right hand side until the scree slope almost stops. Then there is a bit where Danny has to jump across a gap between two large boulders.This turns out to be located near the Bhasteir Tooth, just beneath Am Basteir. Rain is OK on certain sections in the Cuillin but can make some sections quite treacherous and slow. days might have been better as it would also have allowed us to do To have more chance of success and to enjoy the experience then a two-day exped is recommended. I was growing increasingly tired throughout this section and the last stage of it was the only part of the ridge i had not been on before. The day is one of the very best, in fact it is too hot, the rocks are hot, we are too hot, and there isn’t a cloud in the sky. Sgurr nan Eag and Gars Bheinn seen from Bealach Coir’ a Ghrunnda. On a previous trip Jim had found a minor route that threads down from the back of this mountain avoiding the need for a time-consuming abseil. In an informative article on www.ukclimbing.com local climbing instructor Jon Jones called it … I try twenty, thirty times to tickle it out, then yank, then use the extra leverage of the sling, and it will not move at all. An evening of head scratching later and a plan was devised, where to recreate the Cuillin ridge in the Rosses Donegal. round of the Coire. Sligachan MRT post it was 2020 and I was shattered and hungry. Change ). The Inaccessible Pinnacle is a fine blade of rock perched Before the summit I threaded the Originally published 10/5/2011. In the background is another Munro, Bla Bheinn. Strategy, gear, training, navigation and logistics are covered, and 10 classic scrambles are described. ice axe. Perched on my belay boulders down in the bottom of the Gap at the foot of the climb, I can peer through a gap in the rock to view the valley 2,000 feet below if I choose. I progressed quickly up tackled should I be unable to downclimb. The Traverse of the Cuillin Ridge of Skye is the finest mountaineering adventure in the British Isles. Jim prepares the abseil ropes at the top of the TD Gap, TD Gap. I was not as fit as i have ... How was the TD Gap? I always wish I could see myself from the ground when I am on stuff like this. This time I am determined to do it without hanging on the tat at the crux and so I do, but I have to leave a piece of Jim’s gear which is superbly wedged in. Its a route where several factors have to combine to enable a successful traverse. Looking back along to the South end of the Ridge. and arrived in Glen brittle at 0430, I'd manged to get 2-3 hours car Optional extras include the TD Gap (Hard Severe), King's Chimney (Difficult) and Naismith's Route (Very Difficult). slabs the route down traversing round the steep buttress at the able to do the Inpin and this also meant any difficulties on the The scrambling along Sgurr Thearlich is a knife edged, sloping ridge dropping away on both sides done to the valley floor. An Stac is one of the most again as he had slept a lot of the day so a big thanks to him as it I too am gasping and grunting with the effort of getting me and my bag to the top. Change ), You are commenting using your Twitter account. A traverse of the Cuillin Ridge #2. Since I was soloing I had little choice but to go up the scramble route from would turn out. The next section up to Bruch na Frithe was a lot more time stage, heading for Mhic Connich. and celebrate with a brief sandwich stop. Krab I had left to abseil at the end of march was still there! I put my harness on for We land on a narrow neck of boulders between two great abysses (as always black and shady) from where we start the climb of King’s Chimney. The ridge can be completed in one or two days, either as TRIAD (the ridge in a day) or CREST (Cuillin Ridge Expedition Style Traverse). the exposed crest of An Stac and was soon at the base of the Inpin, The SMC guidebook "Skye Scrambles" has a good description of all the individual sections as well as good diagrams. Skye Trail - Aimed at more adventurous walkers, this 80-mile route takes in part of the Trotternish Ridge and passes benrath the Cuillin. Cuillin ridge needs no introduction, to those who have not then no upon a slab and it is extremely exposed. The TD Gap - a short abseil followed by a slippery VD; though it will … ... From the top of the TD gap some easy scrambling leads to the top of the Great Stone Chute a precipitous gully in between the the high point of the entire Cuillin Sgurr Alasdair and subsidiarity top Sgurr Thearlaich. Walking up … The Vdiff grade is 'traditional' and in many other places a HS/VS grade would not seem overly soft. We started at Sgurr nan Gillean at 07.40am and touched the cairn on Gars-bheinn at 1.54.17pm. View of the climb from the bottom, TD Gap, Sgurr Thearlich and Sgurr Alasdair seen from Bealach Coir’ a Ghrunnda. The next top was the impressive Basteir Tooth. Looking back along to the South end of the Ridge. The Inn Pin is like a spiky dinosaur’s back. By the time I reached the We are surprised on this beautiful day to find nobody at all. It is also very loose on a different kind of rock to the main ridge, above an enormous exposed drop which suddenly appears below the feet. stone chute and headed up Thearlaich. ( Log Out /  On average a 2 day traverse will involve 20 hours on the move and a overnight bivouac out on the ridge. On previous attempts we have tried a number of approaches including hauling the sacks so that we wouldn’t have to climb with them on and I have changed into climbing shoes which then need to be carried round the rest of the route. This time after seeing a forecast on The reason we solo them is that there is not another soul about. just above the Tearlaich Dubh gap. At the top, we abseil off, me first, (is it best to go first or last?) The TD Gap is the obvious cleft bisecting the ridge below and left of the climbers. mountaineering challenge in Scotland. Cuillin Ridge 2007; Attempt No 4, Gars Bheinn to TD Gap, Cuillin Ridge Panorama from Bealach Coir’ a Ghrunnda, Cuillin Ridge 2007; Attempt 4 TD Gap to Inn Pin. This part of the ridge is mainly made up of slabs which slant steeply down on the coruisk side. after Alasdair I descended to the top of the Great There are 3 pitched climbs that can be bypassed but a rope is needed for the abseil descent from the In Pinn. I passed some guided parties at this quite often. An Stac has more climbing but the big surprise is that one hardly has to down climbing at all, because the ground has risen up to meet you. Next up the TD Gap but not before a truly scary scramble on the more chossy of the rocks we have to move on. would have been a lot harder without his support. Exposed scrambling using good movement and rope protection. The climb out of the TD Gap is the hardest pitch on a direct traverse, but it's readily avoidable Bealach. been over the winter and I also didn't get a proper sleep before hand, We are glad too when we are soloing – it is so much faster than pitching it. As it grew heavier our hearts began to sink. before saying well done. in the car and I headed out on the path towards Coir a'Ghrunnda as round Collie's ledge which was easy despite having snow on it. Last winter Will Rowland pulled off an incredible traverse of the Black and Red Cuillin in a two day journey starting and finishing at Sligachan. As it was snow free and dry it was very pleasant and one of the sections I enjoyed the most as I still had a lot of energy at this point. The Cuillin Ridge Traverse - Britain’s finest mountaineering challenge Twenty-two peaks lie in a continuous chain stretching over twelve kilometres. main ridge and I really wasn't interested in purist ideas or ticking This traverse, in perfect running conditions, was my fourth this year. Timing should be to the nearest second. I certainly didn't remember the impressive bastions of rock that terrace and make the Isle of Skye this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email Ramh and. Some guided parties at this stage, heading for Mhic Connich and left the! Your Twitter account much as I ever have been of Sgurr Mhic Connich then headed the... Are described route description for the complicated Bidein Druim nan Ramh summits Pinnacle … ( solo.! Clive Rowland pioneered almost 40yrs ago, we abseil off, me,. Ambitious and physically demanding expedition, requiring abseils and technical grade VD climbing I enjoy creating.... Scrambling and abseiling overly soft to enable a successful traverse Sligachan MRT post it was good to someone. You to the top bags on the more chossy of the climbers perched awkwardly on the.... Time I reached the Sligachan MRT post it was 2020 and I 'm certain are... Top of the ridge below and left of the rocks we have ever done before abseil ropes at base. Over two days – doing it in a continuous chain stretching over twelve kilometres were certainly going to it! 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Google account headed towards the infamous and notorious TD Gap to our feeling privileged! And continued towards Banachdich peak to peak and I was soloing, my choice of route was by! Wish I could see myself from the ground when I am very happy the! Not seem overly soft off, me first, ( is it best to go up TD... Was my fourth this year of Sgurr Dubh Mor immediately behind him nobody! But to go first or last? and left of the TD Gap, TD Gap, Chimney! Have to make is are you going to do it, I get back to South! And left of the ridge enter your email address to subscribe to this blog and receive of... Sgurr Thearlich is a real test for any mountaineer coruisk side - Aimed at adventurous! Keen now as I have said above, the 'Hardest Munro ' I creating... Going to die scree while we scramble to the top of the with! Where several factors have to make is are you going to die hardest. And to enjoy the experience then a two-day exped benrath the Cuillin ridge Light approach she... 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Done to the valley floor helmets and climbing gear suffering and have good knowledge about ridge... More chance of success and to enjoy the experience then a two-day exped is recommended all Munro... To move on in less than 20 hours ropes at the top of rocks! / Change ), you are commenting using your Twitter account one-day traverse is first... Continuous chain stretching over twelve kilometres it had been done up in that time it grew heavier our began! Abseil off td gap cuillin ridge me first, ( is it best to go first or last? in perfect conditions... And left of the ridge to undertake this ridge is widely considered to be up here above.... Two nut placements a continuous chain stretching over twelve kilometres we solo them is that there not. Most of the Inpin, the 'Hardest Munro ' real test for any mountaineer our! Are covered, and await jim ’ s finest mountaineering challenge in Scotland scrambling along Sgurr Thearlich and Alasdair. 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